Posted: Apr 06, 2017
One of Chicago's most buzzed-about, ascendant chefs just got a major national nod. Chef Noah Sandoval, of Oriole, was just named among the Best New Chefs of 2017 by Food & Wine in the magazine's prestigious annual list.
The national-stage tip of the chef's hat is well deserved. Oriole was our food critic's favorite new fine dining restaurant of 2016. "Oriole is at the front of the pack. Chef
Noah Sandoval... has created an environment where people can eat some of the most elevated food in America and yet feel completely comfortable, relaxed and happy," we wrote in December.
As with the Grammys (see Best "New" Artist Chance the Rapper), Food & Wine doesn't take a literal approach to the word "new." The now-closed Senza garnered consecutive Michelin stars under Sandoval's watch, you might recall. But we won't split semantic hairs.
Sandoval is the only Chicago- (or for that matter, Midwest-based) chef to make this year's list. Previous winners read like a who's who of Chicago's culinary scene, including Paul Kahan, Stephanie Izard, Dave Beran and, just last year, Iliana Regan.
Food & Wine raved about Sandoval's approach:
"Here is a chef with gob-smacking vision, who convinced us in the space of 16 sublime courses, that the country’s best new fine dining experience can be found up a freight elevator at the end of a West Loop alleyway. Noah’s high-wire wanderings toggle confidently between Japan, Italy and beyond: Hamachi with yuzu kosho and genmai, topped with crispy puffs of grain; capellini with white truffle, crunchy rye berries and yeast butter; a mid-meal bread course of exquisite sourdough, slathered with whipped butter, wheatberries and caraway."
BY STEPHEN GOSSETT
APRIL 3, 2017
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